Old wood sheds new light

Richard Suggett, from the Royal Commission on the Ancient and Historical Monuments of Wales (RCA&HMW), gave an excellent lecture to the Meirionnydd History Society titled Searching for the Oldest Houses in Wales.

1402 seems to be the date of the oldest (dated) house in Wales that we know of and that’s Hafod y Garreg, near Builth Wells, described on the Alastair Sawday website as a particularly fine B&B! It’s thought that during the crushing of the Owain Glyndŵr rebellion (1400 to 1410) all other buildings of any significance were destroyed.

Tree ring dating, or dendrochronology, is the technology that gives us the scientific certainty of 1402. This involves taking a fat, pencil-shaped core out of beams and then measuring the growth rings of the tree to match the rings with known growth norms. In a cold year the rings are very thin, whereas in a warm year, with a good supply of rain, the rings are thicker etc. There’s a lot of skill and know-how in doing this including taking a sample which starts from the outermost skin of the tree towards the centre of the trunk. The outermost skin of the tree is called sapwood and this, especially in a 400 to 500 year old beam, can be very crumbly and prone to disintegrate. If the sapwood crumbles away, the best you can achieve, because these represent the final years of growth, is a date range as opposed to a specific year.

The technology is relatively new but since the 1980s its use has grown dramatically with about 250 houses in Wales now dated. Of these, about a third have been tree-ring dated as part of the Dating Old Welsh Houses Project which has been led by Margaret Dunn. This has radically changed our understanding of the local architectural scene and in particular the ‘Snowdonia house’.

After Glyndŵr the first significant houses or ‘hall houses’ to be built were quite grand or very high status buildings – built by people with the most power and wealth. Examples include Abbey Farm (1441) by Cymer Abbey, just north of Dolgellau, or Plas Uchaf (1435) which is not far from Corwen. Plas Uchaf was restored by The LandmarkTrust and is now available as holiday accommodation. 

From 1450 to 1500 most of the surviving buildings are referred to as ‘gentry halls’ i.e. quite posh whereas most of the buildings from 1500 to 1550 are ascribed the term of ‘peasant halls’ - the same basic shape or design as the posh version but much smaller and less grand. Then came the ‘Snowdonia house’, built on two floors with a substantial staircase.

The earliest Snowdonia house, with the date of 1585 inscribed on it, was thought to be the start of the era for this style of building. New evidence has blown this wide open and we now think the Snowdonia house started to appear in 1515 and that the style was fully matured by 1557. An example being Plas y Dduallt (trees chopped down between 1559 to 1565) with farm buildings now converted into excellent self-catering accommodation called Campbell's Cottage - historic homes and holidays are a good match!

Without the research of the Dating Old Welsh Houses Project with the support of the RCA&HMW we might never have known this. Whereas northwest Wales was previously considered an architectural backwater it is now considered to have been an area of great innovation, not just a belated follower of fashion.

Thank you Richard for an excellent lecture. Thank you Margaret for leading our project and congratulations on being made a Fellow of the Society of Antiquaries of London. For she’s a jolly good …..

If you’d like to know more about, or get involved with, the Dating Old Welsh Houses Group - click here.  

Mushroom Mogul

In 2004 Cynan Jones took part in the wild mushroom course at Plas Tan y Bwlch and now he’s a mushroom mogul running The Mushroom Garden. He started with shiitake and now provides a whole range of gourmet products based on those fungi. It was great to see him in action at Beddgelert (and live on S4C) launching the new products.

Umami powder .... ‘it’s that fifth taste on your tongue, well liked by the Japanese’ ... a blend of seaweed, Halen Môn Sea Salt and shiitake cultivated in Cynan’s shipping containers. He’s teamed up with a local chocolatier in Llan Ffestiniog to make an Umami flavoured chocolate.

Mushroom caviar is a mix of Snowdonia shiitake with laver bread from the Gower. I took some home with me and can vouch that it’s great on a canapé but too much garlic for vampires.

Washed down with a glass of Cwrw Madarch, a pale ale made with dried shiitake at a micro brewery in south Wales  .... what more could one want?

From what I gather these product collaborations have been encouraged by Menter a Busnes – the whole is greater than the sum of the parts? or something like that. Good stuff.

Here is Cynan talking about his new products:

An introduction to an island.

Ynys Llanddwyn has been a part of a holy pilgrimage route for hundreds of years. Whilst those pilgrims knew that the small island off the south-west coast of Sir Fon, surrounded by even smaller islands, was a destination for them, little did I know that the island would be my first destination of a real job after graduating.

I graduated from Cardiff University with a degree in Biology and secured a trainee placement as part of the conservation team with the Countryside Council for Wales (CCW). I am primarily based on Ynys Llanddwyn and Newborough Warren national nature reserve under the guidance and supervision of Graham Williams the senior reserve manager. I realise how lucky I have been to gain this placement considering the current employment woes for graduates and also to learn so much more about an area that I have always enjoyed for its natural beauty. Ynys Llanddwyn successfully attracts people from around the world to share and enjoy the many aspects it has to offer.

Ynys Llanddwyn is home to a diverse array of flora and fauna, some nationally scare. Many species are specialists to the habitats that they are found in, on the island. The habitats themselves are diverse as they range from rocky out-crops to heath-land type habitats. The island is a thriving hot-spot for wild life enthusiasts particularly as it is host to many bird species. 

During the early part of July, there were three ground nesting Ringed Plover nests on the island. Unfortunately all three nests perished. Although it isn't possible to pin-point the exact reason why they perished, it could be due  to the constant disturbance from humans that caused the birds to leave the nest for long enough periods of time to allow predation from crows. Dogs on the island can too, be a thorn in a warden’s side as they can disturb nesting birds a lot. Hence between May and the end of September there is a ban on bringing dogs onto the island, although this isn't always honoured. So to anyone reading this, pass the message on and it will be much appreciated! The island is for everyone to enjoy and use, including the wildlife and as part of CCWs' work, we want to ensure the future success of breeding birds.

Additionally the island attracts flocks of Gannets, lured  by schools of mackerel. Watching Gannets diving into the sea is brilliant and fascinating. I could stand for ages watching them. Cormorants and Shags can be seen resting on a rocky out-crop just off the west side of the island known as Ynys-yr-Adar (Bird Island). Chough too have been a welcome site this year on the island, showing signs of strengthening population numbers. These birds are very interesting to watch in flight as they dive and swoop and their call is distinctive too.

Ynys Llanddwyn also boasts an impressive collection of plant life. The nationally scare Golden Samphire can be found on rocky cliffs. Bell heather can also be found on heath type habitats. Work has also been carried out to restore hay-meadows on the island. Yellow rattle is one species that has been used as it is parasitic on grass species thereby slowing the rate at which it grows allowing wildflower species, for example sheep’s bit scabious, to establish and grow.
As part of the management of Ynys Llanddwyn, it is grazed by four Welsh ponies. By keeping the faster growing species of grass at a lower level, other species have more chance to establish, thereby increasing the biodiversity of plant life and as an extension of that can provide more food resources for different invertebrates and birds. They are generally left alone to get on with their job but all are very characterful and I have seen them sunbathing on the beaches.

During early August, archaeological and restoration work began on the remains of the church on the island. The earliest part of the church is said to date back to the 13th century with additions being made until the 16th century. The church was pillaged for a lot of its stone during the reformation so it is possible that a lot of it is spread across Anglesey. The main aim was to restore the arch of the window on the east side, that collapsed in the 1950s but a lot has been discovered too. A porchway into the church had been uncovered and is thought to have been the last area of the building to be used for services before the church was abandoned. The bottom stairs of a sandstone, spiral staircase were uncovered too as well as the base stones of the chancel arch. All of which are helping to piece together the history of the church. The history of Llanddwyn is extensive and I could write a book so this is very brief and there is a lot more to tell. For more information though, take a look at the Countryside Council for Wales' website. The BBC recently made a report on the work and when the work is complete there will some official opening of the site in early 2013.

Project Co-Ordinator Llwybr Ynni Eryri Energy Trail

£10,500 for 85 days between Nov 2012 & Jun 2013

Environmental social enterprise, EcoBro CIC, are seeking a bilingual person with excellent people and organisational skills & a genuine interest in increasing sustainability in Eryri to work with the Project Manager to plan and deliver an exciting programme of events including Gwynedd’s first ‘eco open-doors’ event for Sustainability Week, 2013.

The job will be home based and the successful candidate will need to be able to work flexibly and travel across Eryri.This is a self-employed position and, if necessary, EcoBro CIC can support the successful candidate to set up as a freelance worker.

For more details please contact Bethan Gritten on 07769 180 257 / beth.gritten@gmail.com

Closing Date 18.10.12 / Interviews will be held on 25.10.12

Cydlynydd Prosiect Llwybr Ynni Eryri Energy Trail

£10,500 am 85 diwrnod rhwng Tach 2012 & Meh 2013

Mae menter gymdeithasol amgylcheddol CBC EcoBro yn chwilio am berson dwyieithog gyda sgiliau pobl a sgiliau trefnu rhagorol, ynghyd â diddordeb gwirioneddol mewn cynyddu cynaliadwyedd yn Eryri, i weithio gyda’r Rheolwr Prosiect i gynllunio a darparu rhaglen gyffrous o ddigwyddiadau gan gynnwys digwyddiad ʽeco ddrysau agored’ cyntaf Gwynedd ar gyfer Wythnos Cynaladwyedd 2013.

Byddwch yn gweithio gartref a bydd angen i’r ymgeisydd llwyddiannus fod yn gallu gweithio’n hyblyg a theithio ar draws Eryri. Swydd hunangyflogedig yw hon a, lle bo angen, bydd CBC EcoBro yn gallu helpu’r ymgeisydd llwyddiannus i sefydlu fel gweithiwr ar ei liwt ei hun.

Am fwy o fanylion ffoniwch Bethan Gritten ar 07769 180 257 / beth.gritten@gmail.com

Dyddiad Cau 18.10.12 / cynhelir cyfweliadau ar 25.10.12

The Day Before The Gale

Saturday (the day before the gale) was a very good day to be out of doors. Kate and I used our bus passes to get from Llanfairfechan (0924) to Bethesda (0950), then sat outside Café Seren in warm sunshine until the Sherpa bus arrived (1015) to take us into Snowdonia. Good to see 10 passengers on board. Up the Nant Ffrancon in glorious sunshine with fabulous views, past Llyn Ogwen and Tryfan (cars and walkers everywhere), then through Capel Curig to Ty Hyll (The Ugly House). This is now open as a café and honeybee information centre, see www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-wales-north-west-wales-18292406. Closed Mondays. Snowdonia Society members maintain the lovely gardens and woodland.

Suitably refreshed, we set off uphill, away from the busy A5. After a steep climb, we turned left onto forest tracks through Gwydyr Forest, past Llyn Bychan, out of the forest onto an open stretch with rowans and bog myrtle. Through a new gate, then left onto a public footpath leading back into the forest and down to Llyn Crafnant. Lunch beside the lake, again in warm sunshine.

Then down quiet lanes, past an old water-mill with its wheel still more or less intact, down to Trefriw on the west side of Dyffryn Conwy. We had just missed the hourly bus to Conwy, so continued on the minor road leading to a footbridge over the Conwy, and so to Llanrwst North station. The two-coach 1531 to Llandudno was very busy – the collector was almost out of tickets – not needed by us anyway, as our Gwynedd bus passes allow us to travel free. Finally, a short wait at Llandudno Junction for the bus back to Llanfairfechan. Cost of the day; just three coffees and a piece of cake.

After a good night’s sleep, we can stay in bed and listen to Huw Jenkins on BBC Wales Country Focus, telling us how the EU is stopping the aerial application of Asulox, used to control the spread of bracken in the hills. Still time to catch it again on iPlayer.

Stoat kills rabbit

The highlight of a day’s walking in the Rhinogydd is usually getting to a summit, enjoying a fine view or reaching the end with a sense of achievement. But this weekend’s excitement was complete before my bootlaces were tied.

While kneeling to put on my boots, by the farm at the far end of Cwm Nantcol, I heard a small scream and twenty metres away was a stoat with its teeth in the neck of a struggling rabbit.  I stumbled forward with my camera and the stoat retreated. Rising up on its hind legs, as if to say don’t you dare touch my rabbit, the stoat took refuge in a nearby stone wall.

A few seconds later, out it came towards the rabbit, but my dog barked and off it ran back into the wall. If I’d been on my own I would have hung around to see what happened next but my fellow walkers were keen to get going.

Within a minute of setting off, on a slate slab across a stream, was a fresh otter spraint. Surely this walk was going to be a great safari.    

Dragon's Back Race over Snowdonia

Day 1 of the Dragon’s Back Race – 82 set out from Conwy but not all of them made it. A team of Spaniards found the navigation too difficult and rather than risk Snowdon in the dark took the minibus option to the overnight camp. Another competitor from North Carolina found the terrain too steep and treacherous – nothing like he’s used to. But they’re all keen to restart on the second day.

In lead position was Steve Birkinshaw who looked pretty weary as he crossed the finishing line some two hours later than the organiser anticipated – has the course been made too tough? Within a couple of minutes Steve was standing on a set of scales that indicated he had lost 3.5kg during the day whilst his water intake had been 6.5 litres. That means he sweated 10 litres!

Shortly after Steve was Rob Baker from Sheffield and then a local from Llanberis. The slower runners would not arrive until well after nightfall. Their reward? They get to start an hour earlier than the rest at 6 am Tuesday morning and guess what, it’s raining and misty as they head up Cnicht and across the Moelwynion.

Here’s Steve at the end of day 1.